EXCLUDED – Interview with chef Marc Veyrat: “These bunch of bastards from Michelin, they knew I was giving the business to my daughter, they took away a star for that! »

March 05, 2024 / Jerome Goulon

Marc Veyrat is one of the big names in French gastronomy. A true self-taught man, he learned everything on his own, obtaining 3 stars in the Michelin Guide three times and becoming the first to be rated 20/20 in Gault et Millau. Now 73 years old, and as he passes the baton to his daughter Élise, he gave us an interview, to be found in the new issue ofInterviews, in which he looks back on his childhood, his career, and the controversy over the loss of his third Michelin star... An interview reflecting the image of his cuisine: authentic and tasty. Here is an excerpt…

Interview: Let's return to the Michelin controversy. You open the “Maison des Bois”, you obtain 3 Michelin stars, and suddenly, a year later, one of them is taken away. Do you know what happened? 
Marc Veyrat: That bunch of bastards from Michelin, they knew I was giving the deal to my daughter, they took away a star for that. They're bastards, that's all... Period. They knew I was quitting. 

You asked to no longer appear in the guide, which they refused. However, your establishment has disappeared from the Michelin website. Were you informed of this? 
I no longer have contact with the new director, because I told him it was a humiliation. And this humiliation continues with Guy Savoy and all the others. They need to create some buzz because they no longer sell their guide. You know, when I first got 3 stars, they sold 500 copies. Do you know how many they sold this year? 000. Did you understand? 

Has the organization of the Michelin Guide changed? 
It has completely deteriorated! It's thin ! And then you know, what is happening is very serious for them. When you go see young people, they don't care about Michelin, they don't care. They don't even want it anymore. I'll tell you why: the Michelin is perpetual harassment. They come to see you on the sly, they will note in the toilets, all on the sly... But do you realize? It's total humiliation and it's done by inspectors who know nothing about cooking. 

How it is possible ?
Now, they don't have enough inspectors, they only have seven inspectors, so they invest clients by telling them: "Go and see what happens..." In court, I had a bad lawyer , but we should have won. Do you know what they did? I wanted to see the Michelin invoice and they brought, I swear, a blurred invoice, because on it, there were the names of the testers who had come, and they were not Michelin people. In any case, I can die in peace, in my life I have never cheated, never wanted the buzz. 

In your opinion, the Michelin Guide no longer has legitimacy?
The problem at Michelin is the change of director. The new guy is young, he just graduated from business school and he doesn't know what boiling an egg is. But it has become commercial. What they did to Paul Bocuse, Guy Savoy… It’s a horror. At Gault & Millau, they are better. They are always one, two or three years ahead of the others. And it’s true! 

You want to know more ? Find the entire interview with Marc Veyrat, conducted by Marie Giancani, in the issue of Entrevue currently on sale…